With so many varieties of plants available, there has never been better time to be a gardener. But endless choice can often lead to confusion. Luckily we have all the advice you need to get started!
Care Guide
Choosing the position in which you are going to plant is important as the requirements for plants vastly differ. Before you prepare the soil, or pot, read the information page on your plants so you can match the plants‘ needs with the best spots to grow them.
In general, most plants do best in loose and well-drained soil with a lot of organic material. Dig enough soil that you can add some compost to improve the soil nutrients and plant with the soil at the same level as the soil once the plant has been removed from the pot. Place the plant into the hole you’ve prepared. Push the soil back into the hole, firming it gently. Thoroughly soak the soil around your newly plant.
Outdoor plants generally need 1 to 2 inches of moisture every week to perform well, so water them if you don’t receive enough rain. Clip off any spent flower heads to encourage the plant to put more energy into new foliage.
Potted Plants
Potted plants can be planted all-year-around and if you can’t plant straight away they can be left in their pots for as long as you need. You’re fine to keep them outside as long as they are well watered and kept frost free. Potted plants offer more established root systems with older, more mature plants that are favoured for their instant impact.
Remember: the majority of trees and shrubs that we supply are deciduous – the leaves fade and
drop off in autumn, and re-grow again in spring. Between October and March, they are most
likely to be dormant and can look a little like “dead twigs” – don’t worry, this is completely normal.
9CM POT
The size ‘9cm’ refers to the diameter of the top of the pot. These plants are well-established and are ready to be planted straight out into final positions, as soon as the weather allows. 9cm pots are most common with seasonal bedding, herbaceous perennials or quite often herbs. They represent fantastic value for money and are better for mass planting than larger pot sizes.
2L – 3L POT
These are larger, mature plants. These well-established plants are ready to be planted straight out into final positions unless your garden soil is frozen or waterlogged. These larger plants are supplied at the optimal size for instant effect. You will find a lot of shrubs and perennials in our range in 2/3L pots such as Garden Glamour Roses & Mini Bay Trees. These plants have a well-established root system which means they’ll grow a lot quicker than smaller plants once planted.
5L – 7.5L POT
Similar to the smaller 2/3L potted plants, these are larger more mature and established plants that are usually trees or shrubs such as fruit trees and roses. Fruit trees and roses need root depth and therefore need a bigger pot. They are ready to plant straight out all year-round and are perfect for creating an instant impact as they are the most likely to flower or fruit within the first year of planting. If you want quicker results, then a larger pot size is better for you.
REPOTTING TIPS
Repotting your plants once you’ve received them is easy, just make sure you avoid planting when the soil is frozen or waterlogged. When ready to plant, dig a hole twice the size of the pot, then fork over the bottom of the hole and add plenty of compost or well-rotted organic matter. Remove the plant from its pot and place it gently in the hole, ensuring that the top of the root ball is just below the level of the soil. If you are planting a tree or a shrub that needs supports, you should stake it now. Fill the hole with soil and compost, firm well to avoid air spaces around the roots, mulch with a good layer of organic matter and water well.
Easy Fill Hanging Baskets
Plant with grown-on plants using top-quality compost for best results.
Step 1
Firstly, get a medium sized plant pot and place it on a table/ potting bench, and then place your Easy Fill basket on top. This will allow you to easily turn the basket, preventing plant damage.
Step 2
Put the couple of handfuls of compost (to the level of the first planting holes) and a sprinkling of SwellGel & Feed into the bottom of the basket.
Step 3
Then get one of your plants, and feed it through the first planting hole, so that the roots and any soil are inside the basket, and the foliage is on the outside (1).
Step 4
There are some “Lattice Gates” in the box with your baskets. These clip into the planting holes of the basket to hold your plants in place. From the outside, place the gate over the planting hole – being careful not to trap any leaves – then click it into place. This will hold the plant with the roots inside and the leaves and flowers outside – in both cases perfectly unharmed! (2)
Step 5
Repeat this process until all of the planting holes are planted up, adding more compost and another sprinkling of Swell Gel & Feed as you go. Create a mound of compost on top of your basket, then plant more plants here too. A 15” basket has room for 4 plants around the outside plus one in the middle. (3)
Step 6
Finally, all you need to do is hang your basket up. You’ll notice a 4-Point chain in the box for each basket. Feed the chain through the apertures built into the rim of the basket, and then click the anchor on the end of the each chain into place. This will lock them in, so your basket will be safe and secure.
Step 7
Water in your plants well, then as they need it, and then sit back and watch your plants grow into incredible displays – the best you’ve ever grown! (4)
What causes Brown Leaves on plants?
Brown sides and tips of plants is a sign the plant is stressed. Most commonly brown leaf tips or brown edges on leaves are caused by the plant not getting enough water.
Most common reasons
There may be too little natural water falling. If this is what is causing the sides of the leaf to turn brown, you should supplement the rainfall with manual watering.
The roots are constricted and unable to reach out for water. This cause of brown leaf tips happens most frequently with container grown plants, but can happen with plants in the ground in particularly heavy clay soils that may act like a container. Either increase watering or replant the plant so that the roots have more room to grow.
The soil does not hold onto the water. If you live in an area that has sandy soil, the water may simply be draining away too fast and this may be causing brown edges on leaves. Improve the soil with organic material which will hold onto the water better. In the meantime, increase the frequency of watering.
The roots may be damaged. If the area where the plant is has been flooded by water or if the soil around the plant is too compacted, this can cause root damage. When the roots become damaged, there is not enough of a root system for the plant to properly take up enough water. In this case, correct the problem that is causing the root damage and then prune back the plant some to reduce its water needs while the root system recovers.
Another reason for the sides of a leaf to turn brown is a high salt content in the soil. This can either be natural in the soil, such as from living close to the ocean, or this can happen through over fertilizing. If you live near a source of salt water, there will be very little you can do to correct the problem. If you suspect that you have over fertilized, reduce the amount of fertilizer and increase the amount of watering for a few weeks to help wash the salt away. While brown leaf tips and brown edges on leaves can be alarming, it is, for the most part, an easily fixed problem.
Leaf Dropping outdoor plants
Leaf drop can occur either because the soil is too wet or too dry. In general, don’t water until the top inch or so of potting soil feels dry, and when you do water, give the plant a thorough soaking.
Nutritional Deficit – If the leaf drop is preceded by leaves turning yellow or pale green first, it’s possible your plant is reacting to insufficient fertilizer. Try increasing its feeding schedule to see if that helps.
Shock – Shock from transplanting, repotting or dividing, is probably the number one reason for leaf loss in plants. This can also be true of plants going from an indoor environment to an outdoor one and vice versa. Fluctuations in temperature, light, and moisture can have an adverse effect on plants, especially as they are transitioning from one environment to another—often resulting in the loss of foliage.
Weather and Climate – As with environmental changes that can lead to shock, weather and climate play a huge role in causing leaves to fall. Again, temperatures can greatly affect plants. A sudden change in temperature, be it cold or hot, can lead to foliage turning yellow or brown and dropping off.
Wet or Dry Conditions – Many plants will drop their leaves as a result of overly wet or dry conditions. For example, overwatering commonly results in leaf yellowing and the dropping of foliage. Dry, compacted soil can have the same outcome, as roots become restricted. To conserve water in dry conditions, plants will oftentimes shed their foliage. Overcrowded container plants may drop leaves for the same reason, giving a good indication that repotting is necessary.
Seasonal Changes – The changing of the seasons can lead to the loss of leaves. Most of us are familiar with leaf loss in fall, but did you know that it can also occur in spring and summer? It is not uncommon for some plants, like broad-leaf evergreens and trees, to shed their oldest (often yellowing) leaves in spring to make room for regrowth of new, young leaf tips. Others do this in late summer/early fall.
Pests and Disease – Finally, certain pests and disease can occasionally cause leaf drop. Therefore, you should always examine the leaves carefully for any signs of infestation or infection whenever your plant is losing leaves.
How do I control lily beetles?
Inspect your plants frequently and pick off the beetles by hand.
Cover the base of the plant with a fine mesh to prevent the beetles reaching the foliage.
If you find the eggs on a leaf, carefully remove the leaf and bag in a plastic bag and seal before disposing. Do the same with the larvae.
Adult beetles instinctively backflip into the soil when danger is near, so if you carefully hold a bowl of soapy water under them then tap the plant, they will backflip into the water and drown.
Spraying the plant with neem oil can have some effect on beetles and larvae.
Use an insecticide if all else fails, but be aware of harming beneficial insects at the same time.